OCTOBER 2001

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Features

Lighthouses From the Air: Part 2
Cape Nelson Lighthouse - New Life for a Lightstation

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Cape Jaffa - AMSA's Response
Bustard Head Lightstation to be Leased
Vlaming Head Relit for Opening
Cape Byron 100th Celebrations
Montague 120th Celebrations
New Lighthouse Book from John Ibbotson
Pete Amass Coming to Australia

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Features

Lighthouses From the Air: Part 2

Heading South

[David Hurburgh <hurburgh@access1.com.au>]

Lighthouses From the Air: Part 1

Situated 360 km west of Melbourne, this western most lighthouse in Victoria is far away but not remote. It takes about 5 hours to get there from Melbourne but despite its proximity to the busy commercial port and town of Portland, it still retains its feeling of isolation and solitude.

Approaching Portland along Princes Highway the first thing Deb, Ed, Malcolm and I saw was a maze of powerlines, all converging on the Portland Aluminium Smelter. A huge pale yellow pile of woodchips waiting to be shipped to Japan was looming next to a wharf. Some distance off shore we could see Lady Julia Percy Island a prominent large rock harbouring a colony of Australian fur seals.

The three Cape Nelson keepers cottages and old workshop and stables.
[Photograph: Ed Kavaliunas]

What we could not see was any place likely to contain a lighthouse. For that, we had to go further west and through the historic township of Portland. It has a legitimate claim to be Victoria's first European settlement, thanks to (among others) four of the seven Henty Brothers, who grazed their sheep and cattle there back in 1834.

Following the signs pointing towards Cape Nelson we soon found ourselves driving along the bush-fringed coastal road, leaving all the industrial mayhem behind. Before too long and all of a sudden a tall, white Cape Nelson Lighthouse came into view as if in the palm of our hand.

Perched on a rock cliff, there is not a beach within a sight of the lighthouse for kilometres. In fact it is pretty hard to even get down to the rocks below. The steep and slippery track is used very little and mostly by wild animals. It was not always this way though.

The old workshop has been converted to part of the Café. Note the original telescope mounted above the doorway.
[Photograph: Ed Kavaliunas]

At the Lighthouse Café we were shown some old photographs dating from 1900's showing distinguished ladies in long skirts and hats sitting on the rocks below the lighthouse after they must have descended along the same path that now bears only fox footprints.

Cape Nelson Lighthouse was built in 1883 together with its adjacent buildings. The largest of them is the head lightkeeper's quarters. This house is nowadays available for holiday accommodation. The second largest house is assistants' keeper's cottage, which is actually two houses that are mirror images of one another. Behind the assistants keeper's dwelling and separated by only about two metres from it is another building a former detached kitchen. It has been converted to holiday accommodation.

The stables too have been converted to become part of the Café.
[Photograph: Ed Kavaliunas]

The smallest building is a former stable for lighthouse keepers' horses. Despite being the smallest, today is the centre of social life at Cape Nelson. The stables have been converted to a café. This is The Lighthouse Café, where you can not only get all kinds of coffee and cake but also have a meal while sitting behind stylish timber benches, at the same time enjoying a view of the lighthouse and its surroundings through the wall to wall windows. Occasionally, acclaimed musicians like Chris Wilson, Jeff Lang and lately Broderick Smith visit the café and perform for people in an intimate atmosphere.

A typical guests bedroom in on of the cottages.
[Photograph: Ed Kavaliunas]

Like all the other buildings and the lighthouse, the former stable has been built from bluestone and later painted over. When John and Heather McNeil took over the lighthouse buildings two years ago, they wanted to return the station to as close to its original look as possible. They consulted with Donald Walker, the architect with special interest in lighthouses and their heritage, and sought approval from Heritage Victoria. It was decided, that while the lighthouse had to stay painted white, because of its function as a navigational Light that must be highly visible even during daytime, the buildings could be stripped of the thick layer of paint and restored to their original condition.

The guest lounge in the main cottage.
[Photograph: Ed Kavaliunas]

This was no easy task because the stone underlying the many layers of paint was easily eroded and therefore no harsh abrasive or solvents such as methylene chloride could be used to strip the walls. In the end the compromise was achieved and the walls were stripped of their coatings except the chlorinated rubber. It was such a hard task that at the moment only the Lighthouse Café is free of paint and even then, remnants of it are still visible in a few hard to get places. Eventually the plan is to strip the paint off both the other buildings as well. According to the old photographs the houses and the stables were originally bare stone, the paint not being applied until much later.

The entrance hall is typical of the closed in verandas of the era.
[Photograph: Ed Kavaliunas]

There are three other buildings around the lighthouse. The engine room, the signal cottage and the office. The engine room contains diesel engine, which used to power the lighthouse before it was converted to mains and is still functional in case of emergency. Hexagonal signal cottage made of timber still retains the shelves with folded flags of various meanings and a telescope tripod. The antique brass telescope is missing though. It is safe, displayed above the door inside the café. The office cottage is newly built but is actually a close copy of a former schoolhouse, which used to stand at the same spot.

Deb, Denise and Malcolm meet former keepers, Max and Linda Lucas in the main cottage's dinning room.
[Photograph: Ed Kavaliunas]

Part of the reason for our visit in Mid-September is that we wanted to find out whether there is a new life for the old lighthouse. Since Cape Nelson is one of four Victorian lightstations that were leased to private citizens and are run as a business we wanted to know whether this is the way to save the lighthouse from deterioration and destruction.

A treasure from the past is still in place. The alarm to let keepers know the light has gone out.
[Photograph: Ed Kavaliunas]

Another treasure, the hand powered telephone, still in use as an intercom.
[Photograph: Ed Kavaliunas]

Like Cape Schanck and Point Hicks lighthouses, the tower itself is owned by the Victorian Government and leased and maintained by AMSA as a Category One navigation light. Cape Nelson Lightstation Pty Ltd as lessees are licensed to access the tower for tours. At Cape Nelson, the tour guides are very enthusiastic and knowledgeable about lighthouses and do not neglect to look after the tower maintenance. As a result the lighthouse is in great shape, the stairs are clean, the brass is polished and the tower is heated in winter to keep away the dew.

The chook run at the rear of the main cottage is a maze of scrub and patchwork sheds.
[Photograph: Ed Kavaliunas]

The historical cottages are much harder and a lot more expensive to maintain. It is not an easy task to use them as a bed and breakfast accommodation for tourists and at the same time to maintain their authenticity.

If people come here and expect resort style luxury with room service, swimming pool, spa and an ensuite with every bedroom on top of beautiful weather each and every day, they are going to be disappointed.

A standard when you are in the country. Hot water bottles (hotties) to keep your bed warn at night.
[Photograph: Ed Kavaliunas]

What they are going to get instead is a touch of old times. Comfortable sleep in an old fashioned bedroom, scrumptious meals they can cook for themselves in the provided kitchen, evening tours of the lighthouse, rotating looms of light emanating eerily from the lantern room at night and either romantic or adventurous (depending on the weather) morning walks around the coastal cliffs.

Come prepared for the driving rain and the wind, which tries to blow you off the cliff, or a beautiful sunny windless day and you will love your stay at Cape Nelson.

A view of the light flashing from the main cottage.
[Photograph: Ed Kavaliunas]

So what is the final verdict?

This type of solution for re-use of a lightstation is dependant on the compromise between preservation and the need for commercial success.

Is there a new life for the old light? Only time will tell.

• The platform is in such condition it is a large insurance liability/risk for AMSA.
• Navigational aid maintenance teams are now unable to access the platform from sea or air to undertake servicing.
• AMSA is planning to position an alternative solar-powered aid about 50 metres from the platform on a single pile structure.
• AMSA offered the structure to National Parks and Wildlife SA after the Department requested AMSA to consider alternatives to the removal of the structure but the offer was declined on the grounds that the maintenance costs and associated risks outweighed the conservation benefits.
• Because the breeding season of the gannet colony in the area is about to commence, AMSA will not be proceeding to remove the structure this year.

The situation will be re-assessed in the first half of 2002.

Bustard Head Lightstation to be Leased

Agreement has been reached with the National Parks and Wildlife Service of Queensland for the Bustard Head Lighthouse Association to lease the 3.1 hectare Bustard Head Lightstation reserve.

The Bustard Head Lightstation from the air when still manned
[Photograph Courtesy: Stuart Buchanan]

The Bustard Head Lighthouse Association was formed several years ago admidst concern about the deterioration of the ancilliary buildings around the light.

Since the lightstion was demanned in 1986, the current cottages built in the 1920's, have suffered as a result of vandalism and the elements and are now down to the frames, though the roofs are still in good condition.

The Bustard Head Lighthouse Association is a non-profit community based group. Their objective of the group is to demonstrate what lighthouse life was like when the station was manned. All proceeds raised go to the restoration and maintenance the lightstation as it was when it was last operating as a manned station.

The Association will operate the site as a display of what life was actually like on a working lightstion. One cottage will be set up for a museum and the use of the Association in administering the site, whilst another will be setup for accommodation.

The tower still has the original crystal prism lens and is still operational. It is hoped to open the tower for tours.

LARCs similar to this are used to bring tourists and supplies to the station.
[Photograph Courtesy: Stuart Buchanan]

Tours have been operating to the lightstation reserve by 1770 Environmental Tours for several years now and this will continue. Shirley Buchanan, of the Lighthouse Historical Society Of Queensland, and also a member of the Bustard Head Lighthouse Association, said that the LARCs (lighter amphibious resupply cargo vessel) used to carry the tourists will also assist in the carrying material and supplies for the restoration of the cottages.

Shirley's partner, Stuart Buchanan, is the president of the Association. Stuart has written several books on Queensland Lights. One called "The Lighthouse Keepers" which includes a delightful description of their experiences as lightkeepers on Bustard Head. Another book, "Lighthouse of Tragedy", is devoted to the history of the Bustard Head Lightstation itself.

As part of the lease conditions the Association must construct a vehicular corduroy track to allow access to the lighthouse. This is of similar construction to the original track that laid tied timber sapplings across the sandy terrain that had to be crossed. It created a stable surface for vehicles to drive over and prevented massive erosion that can occur in these areas.

The Bustard Head cottages in good condition before demanning
[Photograph Courtesy: Stuart Buchanan]

The Association is hoping to obtain a heritage grant from the Department of Environment in the next 3 - 4 months. Shirley said that if the grant comes through the Association will be able to do a lot of the required work within a short period of time. Otherwise, they will be in for a long haul.

The take over will occur in early 2002 after the main tourist season to allow time for work to be completed before the next tourist season.

The Bustard Head Station after demanning.
[Photograph Courtesy: Stuart Buchanan]

Once the lease commences 1770 Environmental Tours will still operate the tours to the lightstation but the Bustard Head Lighthouse Association will manage the lightstation itself.

The lightstation conservation area is also being incorporated into a new expanded national park based on the Bustard Head area.

Anyone who is interested in joining the Association or supporting the group in any way can contact the Association through Stuart Buchanan on (07) 3289 1827 or write to Bustard Head Lighthouse Association PO Box 90 SAMFORD Queensland 4520

The National Parks and Wildlife Service are also in the process of completing lease arrangements for Cape Capricorn to a private operator and Double Island Point to the Noosa Parks Association.

LINKS:	New Book to be Released on Bustard Head
	Plight of Bustard Head Featured on TV and in New Book
	Progress at Bustard Head
	Update On The Progress Of Bustard Head

Vlaming Head Lighthouse, fully restored and ready to re-open.
[Photograph: Ron Campbell]

During the course of the restoration we tracked down a gentleman called Ken Baker, a retired lighthouse engineer/draftsman. He had worked for the now defunct Commonwealth Lighthouse Service of Australia.

Ken retired in 1984 and was enjoying a relaxed lifestyle living at Inglewood in rural Victoria. In the 1950's Ken worked onboard the old steamer, the SS Cape Otway which sailed up the Western Australian coast for over 30 years servicing all the lights and beacons.

Well, after many calls and letters across the continent to make sure we were not crazy! We finally managed to coax him out of retirement and flew him over to the Exmouth.

Ken Baker receiving a framed print of the brass plaque mounted inside the lighthouse.
[Photograph: Ron Campbell]

The official opening was already planned with the re-lighting the culmination of the evening’s ceremony and as usual, Murphy's law dictates nothing will ever be easy! The lights character is 2 flashes in 10 secs and the clockwork mechanism and pedestal had not moved quicker than standing still in the last 34 years all the accumulated dust, dirt, dried grease and oil made any movement a challenge.

After close inspection, Ken thought the Mercury level in the pedestal itself may be too low or contaminated causing it to run too slow, He quickly decided that "We are just going to have to drop the tank and clean the mercury boys".

No sooner had he uttered those words and the counterweights had a major freefall from the top of the tower, luckily the brake was applied just before they reached the bottom. Miraculously the high speed run freed up the system and the timing was perfect! You cannot believe our disappointment, which meant we were going to miss out on dropping the mercury tank (not!).

The last time the tank at this light was cleaned was way back in 1964 and its running within 1/10 of a sec of its original character.

Burning off the new mantle in preparation for showing the light.
[Photograph: Ron Campbell]

So after sorting out a few Kero leaks and replacing the buckets in the air pumps the old light was fired up again the day before the opening and a couple of mantles were burnt off. I don’t know how many readers have ever had the pleasure of seeing and hearing one of these mantles burning but its a real thrill "much better than those new fangled electric lights".

The splendour of the kerosene burner going back in action and going "full bore".
[Photograph: Ron Campbell]

Notices had been posted around the town to advertise the opening, Exmouth has a population of about 2,500 people.

Finally the big night arrived, July 14th. The opening ceremony was planned for 5:00pm and Ken stipulated "The light must be established 15 mins prior to sunset!". I just love that lighthouse talk, and who are we to break with tradition.

So after a small-dignified ceremony attended by channel 7 television, the Shire of Exmouth President, and about 800 people, Ken made the fateful climb and under intense pressure relit, the lighthouse officially, curtains off, for the first time in 34 years.

Plaque dedicated to Ken, Ron and Waynes efforts to re-open the lighthouse.
[Photograph: Ron Campbell]

We dedicated the opening to Ken, and have placed a brass plaque in the foyer commemorating a day none of us will ever forget, without our friend Ken the re-lighting would never have been possible.

He brought over some original Chance Bros. 55mm mantles and as I'm sure you can imagine they are in short supply these days so if anyone out there has any spares their not planning on using, let us know!

We plan on re-lighting the lighthouse to mark special anniversary dates and civic events, we hope in the near future to be able to advertise these dates in tourist guides for the area, so if your in our neck of the woods you might be able to see the old light shining!

The lighthouse light beginning to show at dusk.
[Photograph: Ron Campbell]

Lastly, if any readers have any historical information or stories about our lighthouse please get in touch through Malcolm, we are currently in the next phase of our work, preparing some photographic displays with lots of old black and white pics taken years ago.

Thanks and congratulations, to Malcolm and all those involved with the lighthouse project, it is a remarkable achievement and a wonderful resource. It’s great to be able to bring together lots of passionate people with a common goal, celebrating our history and preserving these magic old lighthouses.

Officially opened on the 1st of December 1901 by the then premier of NSW John See a banquet was held at the Great Northern Hotel to celebrate its opening.

See said that the government had done as much as any in the world to make the coast as safe as possible. Australia, became more important each year and therefore it was necessary to keep the track open.

The Cape Byron Lighthouse.
[Photograph: Ian Clifford]

Cape Byron was the first lighthouse constructed for the Navigation Department, which superseded the NSW Marine Board in 1899, and its fitted with that big first order french optic, not the usual Chance Bros system.

To celebrate the lighthouse centenary the Byron Bay Headland Trust, the present day caretakers of the lighthouse headland and precinct are organising a banquet to be held again at the Great Northern Hotel in Byron Bay on Friday the 30th of November 2001.

In Byron at least pubs are as enduring as lighthouses.

The Trust is currently finalising plans for celebrations to be held at the lighthouse over the weekend.

Enquiries about the celebrations can be directed through the trust by phoning (02) 6685 5955.

The Cape Byron keepers' cottages.
[Photograph: Ian Clifford]

The Byron Bay Headland Trust now has a license with AMSA to conduct tours of the lighthouse. Tours can be arranged through the shop located in the former head keepers cottage at a cost of:

• $25.00 for families
• $8.00 for adults and
• $6.00 for concession holders.

Tours are conducted on Tuesdays:

• Thursdays
• Saturdays, and
• Sundays.

Tours are guided and take approximately 40 minutes.

Bookings are limited to a maximum of ten people.

You have to pass a french test before the tour begins.

If lighthouse stays are on your agenda then Cape Byron would certainly be high on the list.

Accommodation is available in the attached assistant keepers cottages.

Bookings are advised and can be made by phoning (02) 6685 5955.

• 120 Years of keeping our shipping safe!
• 120 Years of rich maritime history!

You are invited to a celebration of this event.

Come with Montague Island Tours and Narooma Charters for a half-day’s adventure, reliving the past as well as getting together with some of the characters who lived it.

The guest of honour is Mr Ian Cameron who was born in Narooma in 1922 when his father "Jock" Cameron was head keeper at Montague. Ian, now retired from the Department of Shipping and Transport is a wealth of knowledge on Montague and lighthouses.

It is also hoped to track down other people with links to Montague.

The Montague Island Lighthouse.
[Photograph: Marguerite Stephen]

Boats will be departing Narooma at 9am and 10:30am and returning at 1:30pm and 2:30pm

Cost is $30 per passenger

This is not the normal Montague tour and features of the day are:

• NSW National Parks & Wildlife guides
• explore the old keepers’ quarters
• tours of the tower itself
• explore the island
• see nesting seabird colonies
• visit the seals
• possibly see whales on the way or the way home (not a full whale-watch tour).

This will be a relaxed and informal get-together in the spirit of 120 years of keeping shipping safe off the coast of NSW.

Unfortunately due to conservation restrictions there will be a limit of 70 passengers to the Island for the day!

The approach to the Montague Lighthouse by sea.
[Photograph: Ian Clifford]

The celebration coincide with the centenary of the township of Narooma so back on shore there will be celebrations too.

At the Narooma Visitors Centre at 3pm visit the maritime history display and the old lens from the lighthouse. There will be a presentation by Laurelle Pacey, author of the well-known "Lure of Montague" book, currently being revised.

There will be a sausage sizzle with tea and coffee provided. Bring your own snacks, drinks and vegetarian.

Complete your day with a dinner and social get together, includng a "share your montague story" segment.

It should be noted the weather can be quite inclement and this can restrict boat access to the Island. The backup-day should this occur is Friday November 2 2001 and there will be a refund if the trip doesn’t happen.

Bookings: National Parks & Wildlife Service Monday-Friday 9am-4:30pm
(02) 4476 2888
Accommodation: Narooma Visitors Centre (02) 4476 2881.

The other reason for the trip was to assemble the last group of photographs for a coffee tab