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Pt Perpendicular Expedition (Part 2)
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Pt
Perpendicular Expedition Report: (Part 2 of 2):
[by
Deborah Taylor]
Sunday
17th October
Sunday morning,
everybody up and at it - Yes, Smithy, you too - we don't care if you
don't want to go to school today. Miracles can happen, Smithy's up before
the crack of noon on a Sunday!
First stop is to
pay Dennis and Penny Richardson
for our lovely accommodation and say goodbye to Ian and Ann Clifford
and family, Averil Legg and all the others we had met - a few coffees
later we are down to business.
Moving back up
the coast to visit the derelict Crookhaven
Heads Lighthouse. Well you know by now that we have a tendency towards
getting lost, well this time we were only a little lost. We didn't feel
all that bad however, when we stopped to ask directions from a Search
and Rescue team on a training run, they had no idea either! Funnily
enough we were only a few hundred metres from the path. Didn't we feel
smug when we found it - all by ourselves.
![Malcolm & Deborah outside the vandalised Crookhaven Heads Lighthouse [Photograph: Ed Kavaliunas]](Crookhaven%20Head%20ek%201.jpg)
Malcolm & Deborah outside
the vandalised Crookhaven Heads Lighthouse
[Photograph: Ed Kavaliunas]
A lovely morning
walk on the beach cleared a few cobwebs. Through some bush paths and
we arrived to find the lightstation - say station because it reminded
me of a telegraph station. Sadly, it has been vandalised and all the
work spent on it has few traces left except for bolted up windows and
barbed wire around the light tower. but nonetheless, a pleasing little
lighthouse.
Back on the road
again travelling south to Cape
St George. I won't bore you with another tale about being hopelessly
lost, (we have some dignity you know) so bye and bye we reach Huskisson
and find a place to eat, then move on towards the lighthouse. We find
it at the end of a narrow single lane gravel road.
Wow, what a mess.
After years of procrastination, having decided it wasn't built in the
right place, a replacement was built at Point
Perpendicular in 1899 afterwhich the Navy demolished the old tower
by way of target practice back in 1906(?).
![Deborah ponders the events a days gone by at Cape St George [Photograph: Ed Kavaliunas]](Cape%20St%20George%20ek%2014.jpg)
Deborah ponders the events
a days gone by at Cape St George
[Photograph: Ed Kavaliunas]
Malcolm believes
they must have brought the tower down with one single well placed hit
because it is so neatly laid on its side with all the stones in the
correct order.
The remains have
been fenced off and windows and doors of then other buildings have been
carefully fitted with black bars. The whole complex has been carefully
maintained and all fittings, like bars and fences have been carefully
thought out. Funny how perceptions change isn't it. What was beautiful,
was destroyed, what was destroyed has been made beautiful.
![The Cape St George Lighthouse was built close to the edge of the 100m cliff [Photograph: Ed Kavaliunas]](Cape%20St%20George%20ek%203.jpg)
The Cape St George Lighthouse
was built close to the edge of the 100m cliff
[Photograph: Ed Kavaliunas]
We are running
way behind schedule. It has taken us half a day to travel no more than
50 kilometres than where we started as the crows fly.
So we hit the road
again moving on towards the lighthouse
at Ulladulla. To get
there we travel through attractive coastal dairying country. It is full
of little villages and farmland.
![Malcolm & Deborah meeting Cathy Dunn at Warden Head [Photograph: Ed Kavaliunas]](Warden%20Head%20ek%205.jpg)
Malcolm & Deborah meeting
Cathy Dunn at Warden Head
[Photograph: Ed
Kavaliunas]
Once there, we
seek out Warden
Head, a replica of the old lighthouse on Wollongong
Harbour set squarely in the middle of a car park. Here we meet up
with Cathy Dunn, a very bright lady who knows
the history of the area like the back of her hand. She points out
the location of the where the keepers cottage was and other local landmarks.
![Warden Head and Cottage before 1920 [Photograph Courtesy: Cathy Dunn]](Warden%20Head%201920%20cd%201.jpg)
Warden Head and Cottage before
1920
[Photograph Courtesy: Cathy Dunn]
After Smithy finishes
photographing the lighthouse and some interesting local aboriginal art
installations on the reserve she personally escorts us to the original
location of the lighthouse, the breakwater on the Ulladulla
Harbour.
![The original site of the Warden Head Lighthouse in the foreground [Photograph: Ed Kavaliunas]](Warden%20Head%20Original%20Site%20ek%209.jpg)
The original site of the Warden
Head Lighthouse in the foreground
[Photograph: Ed
Kavaliunas]
Cathy even took
us home for a coffee, shared more of her knowledge and supplied Malcolm
with bits and pieces - this made Malcolm very happy!
![Malcolm and Deborah examining some of Cathy Dunns photos [Photograph: Ed Kavaliunas]](Malcolm%20Cathy%20&%20Deb%20ek%201.jpg)
Malcolm and Deborah examining
some of Cathy Dunn's photos
[Photograph: Ed
Kavaliunas]
Time is moving
on a bit; we decide the next stop will be Batemans
Bay for dinner. A quick prowl around town, we bypassed the glossy
clubs for a quiet meal at a Vietnamise Restaurant - and very good it
was too.
Tiredness begins
to catch up with us and Moruya
finds us checking into a hotel/motel. Smithy and I discover our room
looks suspiciously used if not occupied and we are transfered into a
luxury unit by default. Yes!
Half an hour or
so to wind down and watch a little art history on the TV we call it
a night.
Wake up to find
the room faces out on to a wide river full of all types of fish. Just
as a little treat we decide to have breakfast by the river before we
head off.
Heading now for
Narooma
to the Lighthouse Museum which houses the original Montague
Island Lighthouse beacon. Yes, you can put a dollar in the box and
the light comes on and the huge crystal lens spins around! - (Yes, okay
we did).
![The original Montague Island Lens is the feature of the Museum [Photograph: Ed Kavaliunas]](Narooma%20Museum%20ek%201.jpg)
The original Montague Island
Lens is the feature of the Museum
[Photograph: Ed
Kavaliunas]
The museum was
established when the local community wanted the original crystal lantern
from the newly upgraded Montague
Island Lighthouse returned to the town. What is found is here is
typical of what you would find in a lighthouse over the last 100 years.
Smithy photographed some of the more important artefacts plus a few
for me.
![Smithy, Malcolm and Deborah at the Narooma Lighthouse Museum [Photograph: Ed Kavaliunas]](Narooma%20Museum%20ek%2011.jpg)
Smithy, Malcolm and Deborah
at the Narooma Lighthouse Museum
[Photograph: Ed
Kavaliunas]
As time is closing
in on us we have to forfeit our planned trip to Montague Island as we
have to cover around 150km to reach Green
Cape, south of Eden.
Passing through
Eden, Malcolm
points out that there used to be a wooden lighthouse here on Twofold
Bay last century which has since disappeared and very little is known
about it.
As we leave Eden
we decide to phone ahead to Green
Cape to let Richard Jermyn, the caretaker, know that we are coming.
He informs us that John Ibottson has only just left an hour before.
Malcolm has spoken to John on the phone but has never meet him personally.
John is well known amongst lighthouse enthusiasts as the man who left
his job, cashed up his superannuation and hit the road with the mission
of being the first person to photograph every lighthouse in Australia.
I am sure that one hours difference would have made a great meeting.
![The Green Cape Lighthouse and Head Keeper's cottage [Photograph: Ed Kavaliunas]](Cape%20Green%20ek%2010.jpg)
The Green Cape Lighthouse
and Head Keeper's cottage
[Photograph: Ed
Kavaliunas]
Off the main road
and down about 25 kilometres of gravel roads through the forest and
it is worth the trip. Green
Cape Lighthouse is truely beautiful.
![Some of the remnants of Mark Sheriffs artwork on the clock mechanism [Photograph: Ed Kavaliunas]](Cape%20Green%20Clock%20ic%205.jpg)
Some of the remnants of Mark
Sheriffs artwork on the clock mechanism
[Photograph: Ed
Kavaliunas]
Richard takes us
on a tour of the lighthouse and points out the work, what is left of
it, done by Mark Sheriff who was once the caretaker here. Somewhere
along the line the decision was made to repaint everything - everything.
All that remains are the few scant paintings, the dolphins on the gas
tank outside and some scroll work around the clock mechanism at the
base of the pedestal of the beacon. As an artist I can tell you that
this man is a fine draftsman indeed and his work in renovating both
this lighthouse and Point
Perpendicular and their quarters is legendary. If those 'above'
don't appreciate it, I can tell you the locals certainly do. Mark is
currently the caretaker at the Sugarloaf
Point Lighthouse in Northern New South Wales. It would interesting
to see if he has had the same unique influence on that lighthstation
![Richard Jermyn polishing the lantern at Green Cape [Photograph: Ian Clifford]](Richard%20Jermyn%20at%20Cape%20Green%20ic%203a.jpg)
Richard Jermyn polishing the
lantern at Green Cape
[Photograph: Ian
Clifford]
Richard is very
accommodating and patient, downing his tools to take time out for us.
He too is another example of those with a down to earth approach and
dedication. But as beautiful as this lighthouse is - we would loved
to have spent more time here - time is closing in on us.
At this stage we
had hopes of reaching at least one more lighthouse. We decided that
Gabo Island
(near Mallacoota, Victoria)
would be out of reach due to time and access constraints but Point
Hicks, near Cann
River, further West of Mallacoota might be more attainable. However
as the drive progresses and darkness closes in we relise that we are
cutting a bit too fine.
Our next major
stop is Orbost,
some 180 kilometres away as we head south then west towards home.
Even by now the
stress of such long hours was beginning to show. By the time we reached
Orbost
we were in need of a good meal and rest.
From Orbost pretty
much non-stop home, taking shifts at driving, each shift became shorter
and shorter as tiredness gave way to exhaustion. We arrive home well
after midnight. The morning began at Moruya some 100's of kilometres
away from home.
From 6pm on Friday
Evening to late Monday Night we had covered over 2,000 kilometres, seen
eight lighthouses and met dozens of interesting people.
I think we are
all getting old or something because it took ages for us to recover
but it was well worth it and as always we had lots of fun doing it.
Next major trip
is South Australia. See you then.
![Deborah. [Photograph: Ed Kavaliunas]](../../About/Deborah%20Taylor%20ek%201.jpg)
Deborah.
[Photograph: Ed
Kavaliunas] |
![Malcolm. [Photograph: Deborah Taylor]](../../About/Malcolm%20Macdonald%20dt%201.jpg)
Malcolm.
[Photograph: Deborah
Taylor] |
![Smithy (aka Ed). [Photograph: Deborah Taylor]](../../About/Ed%20Kavaliunas%20dt%201.jpg)
Smithy (aka Ed).
[Photograph: Deborah
Taylor] |
Department
of Scrounge:
If
anybody has any of this material on any Australian lighthouses including
the ones listed at the Department
of Scrounge it would appreciated, especially the high priority ones:
-
Original
Colour Photographs
-
Historical
Photographs or Postcards
-
History,
experiences and anecdotes
-
Technical
History
Please eMail <Keeper>
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Australian
News:
The
Romance of Australian Lighthouses is not dead
Dear
Malcolm,
I
know this comes a little late but we have been extremly busy.The Proposal
on the 30th October was a huge success. It was Mirella's birthday and
by her surprise I woke her 5:00am that Saturday morning begging her
to get dressed quickly, making her believe that we were going on a long
drive for her birthday. On arrival at the Airport, she was overwhelmed
by the surprise that we were flying to Sydney for her first time.
We
spent the morning driving around Sydney site's visiting place's like
Bondi Beach, Paddington Market, Queen Victoria Building, King's Cross,
Oxford & George Street's. We then caught a taxi to Watson's Bay
and had a delicious lunch at Doyle's Restaurant on the Wharf.
![The Macquarie Lighthouse, scene of the romantic moment [Photograph: Jeanne Vanessa Eve]](../../NSW/Macquarie/Macquarie%20je%204.jpg)
The Macquarie Lighthouse,
scene of the romantic moment
[Photograph:
Jeanne Vanessa Eve]
After lunch we
walked to the Macquarie
Lighthouse. Here I pulled out the ring box and behind the building
facing the sea I traditionally got down to one knee and asked the woman
I love to Marry Me. With tears in her eye's and her smile of glee her
answer to me was............ "YES".................
We
then caught a water taxi to 'The Rock's' and spent the evening celebrating
on Sydney's Show Boat, cruising around the harbour and drinking a bottle
of MOET CHANDON.
My fiance and I would like to thank you for all your help in making
that day possible for us and the helpful information you had given me,
but unfortunatley I was still unsuccessful getting inside the lighthouse,
but never the less even though it rained, we had a beautiful day.
Your's Thankfully
George Grasso and my fiance Mirella Travaglini..
Thanks
to the Following People for Their Help in November:
Australian Lighthouse
Association (Donation)
Jay Owen (Photograph)
Christopher Arthur (Photographs)
Averil Legg (Literature)
Ross Harper (Photograph)
Kris Filsell (Photograph)
Ian Clifford (Photographs)
Peter Bird (Info)
Mark Wilson (Photographs)
Thanks
to all the people who have put links to the site
Thanks to those
who let me use their photos for thumbnails.
Regards until
the January 2000 Bulletin
Malcolm Macdonald
http://www.lighthouse.net.au/lights/
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