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FeaturesLighthouses From the Air: Part 7
Wilsons Promontory by Land
[Denise Shultz <pshultz@tpg.com.au>]
The steep concrete "driveway" seemed to go on forever and I was near exhaustion as I was trailing our group of seven family members and friends. A few minutes later I joined the rest of the gang waiting for me at the top of the hill, where our journey ended. We finally reached the South-East Point - better known as the Wilsons Promontory Lighthouse. They were waiting for me in the company of a slim woman in her forties with short hair and sun tanned weather beaten face. According to my
sources she should have been Kate, but when I asked if it was her name
she told me that Kate had left some five months ago and her name was
Gill. She and her husband Keith were now looking after the Wilsons Promontory
Lighthouse and its visitors after taking over from Matt and Kate. Gill and Keith Chapman come from Tasmania and for them Wilsons Promontory Lightstation must seem like a reasonably busy place. Last year they spent two three month stints at Maatsuyker Island, the southernmost lightstation in Australia. They both have other professions but decided to give the lighthouses a go after reading an advertisement looking for caretakers and weather observers for this windswept, and most remote of lighthouses. With qualifications like that, Wilsons Promontory must have seemed like a tropical paradise. One thing is for sure - they can not complain about the lack of company of other people. From what Gill told me the cottages are seldom unoccupied.
Lots of things have happened in the Wilsons Promontory National Park and especially to the lightstation since our last visit here three years ago. A new track has been cut along the eastern side of Wilsons Promontory from the lighthouse to Little Waterloo Bay, linking the lighthouse with all the rest of the east coast up to Sealers Cove. It is a little longer than the old one through Roaring Meg, but follows the coast most of the time and is reputedly more interesting. The final 3 km of the old lighthouse track were also changed and built closer to the coast. The path is now much safer and provides the hikers with a spectacular view of the lightstation, Bass Strait and the islands as far as 80 km away. Rodondo Island, 12 km distant, looks a lot closer and when the visibility is good Curtis Island can be seen on the horizon. The many buildings that make up the lightstation are under the control of Parks Victoria except the lighthouse which is still under the control of AMSA. A program of restoration has been undertaken to give the three of the four cottages a new life as accommodation for the numerous hikers who frequent the area. On the western side two of the three cottages were made available for accommodation in 1996. The first one has been recently refurbished with modern fully equipped kitchen, two bathrooms, library, comfortable furnishings and bed linen included at no extra cost. It can sleep eight people. Gill and Keith occupy the middle cottage. The third cottage (and the one we were staying at) is called Sutton as a tribute to the last lighthouse keepers Peter and Pat Sutton. It is closest to the lighthouse. This house used to be able to accommodate 12 people but now it has only eight beds in three bedrooms. On the eastern side of the station is a former head keeper's cottage (Richards Residence). This house built of granite stone has been empty since the Suttons left in 2000. The external roofing has recently been restored to the original slate and the internal renovations will resume in April. It is anticipated that it will be available later in the year to be rented to the visitors.
Though I am very happy that Richards cottage, which is the oldest (1859) and most historically important, is being renovated and restored, I can not help but having my doubts about the wisdom of catering mostly for the up market tourist. It may bring in more money, but few people would be encouraged to stay longer than one night. Also, the type of people who hike the 18 kilometres from Tidal River to the Lighthouse are unlikely to be looking for this type of accommodation. I believe, and the caretakers agree with me, that this place is enjoyed the best when you have more time to experience it, to relax for a day, taking in the beauty of the surroundings, before enduring the long walk back to Tidal River. When the refurbishment of the head keeper's house is finished the accommodation capacity of all three houses would be 28 beds. Thirty people is quite a crowd and the environment, already altered beyond repair by one and a half centuries of human habitation, could suffer even more, if things are not handled with great care. Hopefully all aspects will be considered. Parks Victoria, who have been the owners of the lightstation since it was automated in 1993 declared this the area of historical significance and therefore no one is allowed to remove anything from there. Strangely enough, that includes all the rubbish dumped and scattered over the cliffs all around the lighthouse during the era when lighthouse keepers were not as environmentally conscious as we are today. Even this rubbish may be historically significant.
During our first visit five years ago, when approaching the lighthouse I remember distinctly hearing the sound, which reminded me of a helicopter. Coming closer we could see that a powerful wind generator was making the noise. The next day though, it was on the ground and in need of repair. Now the windmill has been changed for a smaller sleeker model, which is not only quieter but also more reliable. The remnants of a flying fox on the western side of the point further deteriorated and are fast disintegrating. We had a full day to recover at Wilsons Promontory lightstation before heading back to Tidal River next morning. Two members of our party refused to walk more than 50m from the lighthouse (moving any further would have involved climbing down and up the dreaded hill again) but the rest of us explored the surroundings with the renewed energy. As this was our third visit here we could see that some things have remained the same but a lot has also changed.
What has not changed though is the charm this place exudes. It is a tough walk from Tidal River but it's worth the effort. Though we were always lucky to have sunny weather I can imagine the lightstation would not lose any of its magic during a storm or a gale. It still has a feeling of living in a by gone era when the lightkeepers had to take turns every night tending the light and watching for passing ships during the day. No matter what further changes are planned for the station, I hope this aspect will always remain the same.
For
those who are interested the cost of staying at Wilsons Promontory Lightstation
is:
Is Nelson Head the Shortest Lighthouse in the World?[Sam Calder <sam_calder_subs@yahoo.com>]
Regrettably, between 1862 and 1872, there were apparently some twelve wrecks in the area with the loss of about forty lives before the Nelson Head "Inner Light" eventually commenced operations on 1st April 1872.
The light room (1876) contained four kerosene lamps, one in each of the four windows, trained onto specific parts of the harbour. Electric light did not eventuate until 1948. The windows were sized and positioned such that various width beams were thrown over the bay and out to sea to guide ships around the extensive shoals in the harbour. The room ceased operation after 1984 when it was replaced by a Tupperware Tower on top of an old WW2 bunker further north of the building. So, is this the shortest lighthouse in the world? The hexagonal light room itself is 2.4m from ground level to just under the guttering. The roof sticks up a further 1.75m above that point, making the total height 4.15 metres top to bottom. The room used to have a chimney and cowl on top of that (to assist in the removal of kerosene fumes) but those were removed many years ago as they were not required once electric light was introduced. The room is eleven feet across (inside measurement) and is made of 14 inch thick concrete and then rendered with a vaulted roof of 9 inch coke concrete over which was a pointed timber and corrugated iron roof. The focal plane of the light is approximately 175 feet above high water, that's about 52.5 metres. To answer Col's question (and at the risk of being accused of being a fence-sitter) "We don't know." (Groan - what an anticlimax!). This may well be the shortest building that houses a navigation light, but, regrettably, this is not a recognised measurement in nautical circles. No doubt there will be many more ports sunk over this topic (and perhaps even a few letters from our readers both at home and abroad). Many thanks to Col for this valuable contribution to our site. For more information regarding the Nelson Head Lighthouse and the Museum please contact Colin Hay <light_house@coastalpatrol.nelsonbay.com> Letters & NoticesGetting Grandmother Back to Neptune Island
Looking for Bernard MacGowan of Montague Island
Looking for Ernest John Percey of South Solitary
Looking for William Woolley
Lost Fellow Keepers of Cape Nelson and Bruny
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