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FeaturesNSW South Coast Lighthouse Expedition - Barranjoey Head[Malcolm Macdonald <keeper@lighthouse.net.au> with additions by Ed Kavaliunas <edkav@pipeline.com.au>] Narooma to Sydney
Leaving Narooma
after a quick bite to eat, the drive takes us up through Bodalla
and Moruya,
with a short rest break at Batemans
Bay. Next comes Ulladulla,
where we see our first evidence of the devastating
bushfires that razed the bush around Sydney
in December and January. Blackened trunks for mile after mile, twisted
armcos'
and seared signs, but already regrowth is apparent after only a few
months. The trees have a soft green covering of new leaf growth, evidence
of the recuperative ability of the bush.
Monday is a bit
of a rest day. Malcolm has dialysis in Wollongong, and I have an opportunity
to visit a favourite aunt in Sydney. Corinne is excited as the beach here is where they film the TV soapy "Home and Away". We have passed Alf's Diner and discover that they are filming today. Corinne is tempted to see if she can be an extra and we jokingly say that this maybe a better option for her than the climb to the lighthouse. If you watch the show, and who doesn't, you will often catch the headland with the tower in the background of scenes.
The fee at the car park is hefty: $5 weekdays, $9 weekends. I wonder whether the Pittwater Council is exploiting the area's notoriety. I had been to view Barranjoey years ago but am still horrified to realise how abrupt the headland is and am a little anxious about the climb up to the lighthouse. Trip to Barranjoey Head from car park
along beach towards the National
Parks and Wildlife Service cottage at the base of the path to the
light. Rough and at times steep the path is made up of large irregularly
laid stones.
I
take several rests on way up and while pausing the views are worth it.
The approach to
the lightstation is from the back and passes the back of cottages. They
are cut into the ridge and as a result have sunken back gardens. Each
has a series of steps leading down to the gardens and each cottage.
From the top of the ridge we are looking over the roofs of cottages. The path takes us around the tower and back down the slope and leads to the front of the Headkeeper's cottage where we enter a walled hidden garden. This is on the basement level of the cottage with worn sandstone steps leading up to the living area of the cottages. On the verandah is a stunning view over the garden wall towards the Pittwater. There are volunteers
working to clean up the garden and help remove weeds and establish compatible
vegetation
He
points out the verandah railing that is being restored. The pattern
is matched perfectly with the exception of being higher to meet modern
building safety requirements. The
state the cottages and garden were in is very much how they were left
by the keepers when they left in the 1930s.
Mark
is renown for his attention to details and the little artistic additions
that he makes to his lighthouses. He was featured on ABC
TV's "Australian
Story" in February 1997 and is also featured in the 'Beacons
of Hope' video about Australian lighthouses. Mark Watt shows us around the cottage where the rooms are in various stages of renovation. Most have the plaster back on but the timber architraves are yet to come.
This has left the
Nepean
sandstone exposed and it looks so attractive that is tempting not
to re-plaster these areas. The stone bears the original chisel marks
and the ceiling beams still exposed. There
are steps from the headkeeper's sunken garden up to oil room that joins
the tower. At the top is a doorway that had been bricked up and had
a toilet installed for the mechanics working on the light. The door
has been reopened and the toilet has been removed.
The oil room is now the generator room. The old Lister generator has been decommissioned due to safety problems with the internal diesel oil tanks. Backup
power has been replaced by a modern battery backup system that has skillfully
been screened from public view and thus preserves the integrity of the
room. From
the oil room we proceed to the base of the tower. It is an easy climb
compared to the ones previously encountered on this trip. Like the cottages
the tower is constructed from the local Nepean sandstone, the colour
of which gives a very attractive finish.
The tower is typical Barnett and carries the feature common to other towers he has designed along the New South Wales Coast. The lantern room though freshly painted is plain without any timber lining. The lens is a large 2nd order lantern. Out on the balcony
the view is fabulous. The
Pittwater to the South West; the Hawkesbury
River to the West; Brisbane
Waters to the North; Ocean to East and suburban beaches to the South.
Denise has to get
back to Darling Harbour
to meet our overseas visitors so it is time to say our good-byes and
descend via smugglers track. It is a rough stone staircase through a
tunnel in the undergrowth that leads to the base of headland. It doesn't
have the views but is has great atmosphere. Pauline O'Brien Visits from Western Australia
"I'm coming to Melbourne to talk at a dinner!" was my first email and before I knew it two days allocated to talk about my educational tour of India had extended to 6 days with the bonus of a long weekend for sight seeing with ambitious plans for a lighthouse marathon. Malcolm and Denise had been giving me weather forecasts in the week leading up to my trip to Melbourne, and as Malcolm predicted the weekend was perfect lighthouse weather - which roughly translates to blowing a gale so that the seas were whipped up into a frenzy crashing on rocks and sending up a spray worthy of anything I had ever seen at my own dear Leeuwin Lighthouse. In what proved to be a very ambitious schedule, we managed to see lighthouses, starting with Cape Schanck and a great ferry ride to Queenscliff (I had no idea Port Phillip Bay was so big!!)
The Black Lighthouse looked so formidable as we approached it by sea. More faces to match names as I met up with Deb and Ed Kavaliunas at the markets. Next stop Aireys Inlet Lighthouse, then off down the Great Ocean Road - absolutely beautiful and like the wonderful hospitality I received the whole time I was in Victoria, something that I had heard about but never seen.
A night stop in Apollo Bay and dinner at Buffs, yet another of Malcolm's "There's a wonderful little place in ... called ... where you can get a great meal." The risotto and lemon tart were to die for. Next morning it's time to see Cape Otway followed by a visit to Cyril Marriner, the president of Friends of Cape Otway Station. To see the lobbying process in action as I watched Denise and Malcolm go into Committee mode; impressive! (Pauline wasn't too bad either! [Malcolm]) On the road westward again where the wind and the cliffs at the 12 Apostles would be enough to scare any sailor - we had to fight to stand upright. No wonder its called the shipwreck coast!
There's no doubt that making personal connections works - being able to put voices and personalities to names and photos was just great. Likewise seeing the way people reacted to personal contact when airing their interest in and concern about the future of lighthouses was great. Deal Island 1933
We are situated here in the middle of Bass Strait, somewhat removed from the beaten track, but still in touch with the outside world through the wonders of radio. Wilsons Promontory, the nearest Victorian mainland station, is 50 miles away to the West-North-West and the Furneaux Group on the other side of us 35 miles to the East-South-East.
Deal is one of the Kent Group of Islands, the others being Erith and Dover, three quarters of a mile to the West. North East Island lays about a mile and a half to the North East. The area of this (Deal) island is about 5 square miles, about half of it being cleared. The other half, deep gullies and high hills, is heavily scrubbed and forms quite a sanctuary for birds of all hues and also for the native marsupials. There are only two families on the island, the other keeper (Cyril Huxley) having his quarters on top of the island over 2 miles away. On the west side of the island is the landing jetty, situated in a lovely bay that is perfectly sheltered from all easterly weather, a regular haven of refuge for the cray fishing fleet that sometimes gets caught in the easterlies that sweep with such force through Bass Strait.
A beautiful sandy beach shelves somewhat steeply into the water and immediately behind it, the land rises abruptly to a height of 300 feet before flattening out to a slight level. A haulage runs from the jetty up to this level, the grade for the first half being one in one decreasing to one in three about half way. On this first level we find the head keepers quarters, the wireless mast engine and the wireless sheds. Also the stable for the two station horses, the chaff shed, cart shed etc. Two white picketed graves bear testimony to the Reapers activities, here as elsewhere. A walk of about 2 miles brings us to the foot of South Bluff. A second haulage not quite so steep as the first one runs from the foot of the bluff to the top. Here are the lighthouse oil store and the other lightkeeper's quarters. The view from the top of the tower will repay the trouble of climbing here. To the westward are clearly seen the South West Island, The Judgement Rocks, The Devil's Tower, Curtis Group, The Split Rock and further still, Rodondo and Wilsons Promontory. To the North-West is the Hogan's Group and 18 miles away and close to the Victorian shore in the same direction is Cliffy Island. To the South East, Flinders Island looms up prominently and in very clear weather Prime Seal and Chappel Islands are plainly visible. The lighthouse is 957 ft above sea level, reputed to be the highest in the Southern Hemisphere. It was established in 1846 and is visible in clear weather at a distance of 60 miles. Of the events which have occurred on the island within recent years three are outstanding.
The first was the wreck of the USS cargo steamer "Karitane" on the South-East point of the island on the morning of December 24th 1921. In a thick fog, she was proceeding from Strahan on the west coast of Tasmania to Sydney loaded with a general mixed cargo, amongst which were several hundred tons of copper ingots. Fortunately, no lives were lost, as the captain was able to run her up on the beach in Squally Cove, just below the lighthouse.
There she still rests, her forward decks awash, her after decks submerged and the bridge still standing well out of water. The wreck is an object of interest to all the visiting yachtsmen who like to fish from the top of the chart room and catch their dinner alive and kicking out of No. 2 hold. The second event was the landing on the island on the evening of October 17th 1931 of a Gypsy Moth aeroplane. To us who have not seen much more of these than is provided by the illustrated papers, the landing of a real live aeroplane at our back door was quite a notable occurrence. The dread that something was wrong was quickly dispelled when the pilot stepped out of the cockpit and in answer to our enquiries said everything was OK. He merely wanted to know whether we can accommodate him for the night and expressed the hope, that he had not dropped in too late for tea. Under the circumstances "dropped in" was quite in order.
The third event happened in January 1933. This also was a landing of a plane on the island, but on this occasion the engine had stalled and the landing was a forced one. The undercarriage was broken but fortunately, neither pilot nor passenger were injured. Since then however, we got quite used to the sight of the planes flying overhead. The Hart Aircraft Co. mail service plane Tasman (Melbourne to Launceston via Flinders Island) has been passing here lately twice a week as well as Holymans plane Miss Launceston. Last Monday, no less than six planes and a flying boat passed overhead within a couple of hours of each other.
Mr Turner, pilot of the Tasman, never forgets to drop us a bundle of reading matter whenever the weather permits, an act of thoughtfulness that we all greatly appreciate. So great had been the strides that radio and aviation have made lately that it seems a far cry back to the days when on at least two Tasmanian lights, the carrier pigeon was the only means of communication from one quarterly visit of the store vessel to the next. As a general rule, the first three that got released on the third week after the boat had left, had some chance of getting to their destination. They would be in fair flying condition and, provided that the day was clear and the wind favourable, they had a fair sporting chance. But the last three that were released after twelve weeks of confinement had in the meantime accumulated so much fat, that they became an easy prey to the hawks.
Taking it on the whole, whatever their value converted into vitamins, as carriers of urgent and important messages, they failed to live up to their reputation. We are so getting used to now to the help of radio for urgent calls and for summoning medical aid in case of illness, that we hardly realise by what a very slender thread fate sometimes kept us dangling. The carrier pigeon was a very uncertain method of bridging the gap to civilization. With radio we feel security, which greatly conduces to our piece of mind and and certainly to our general welfare. Letters & NoticesJudgement Rock - Another Point of View Still Looking for James O'Brien
Looking for Moreton Island's First Lighthouse Keepers
Looking for Captain Edward Nillsen of Eddystone Lighthouse
The Isaacs, Keepers of Tasmania
Home Sick for a Rich Lighthouse Heritage
Feel free to post any request, letters and notices here regarding research, events etc for any Australian Lighthouse on this notice board. Department of Scrounge:If anybody has any of this material on any Australian lighthouses including the ones listed at the Department of Scrounge it would appreciated, especially the high priority ones:
Please eMail <Keeper> New Pages & LinksNew Pages for Australia:Volunteers needed to research and write up text for New Pages for Australia New Links for Australia:
Also, New Links for World:
If your e-mail does not display in HTML these pages can be accessed from the "New Listing for Month Index" at <http://www.lighthouse.net.au/lights/New/Index%20New.htm> Australian News:
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A colour was chosen that was sympathetic to viewing the aspect of the Headland from Palm Beach immediately to the south. The headland with it's lighthouse are often the backdrop for the television soapy "Home and Away" and many advertisements.
The Headkeepers Cottages has been the first to be restored. The walls have been stripped back and re-plastered, glazing repaired and doors refitted.
Photographs
showing the lighthouse while it was manned have been hung on the walls
of the Headkeeper's cottage.
[Image: Ed Kavaliunas]
Historic photos, many made available by author of "Tales of Barranjoey" and Lighthouses of Australia member, Jervis Sparks, have been hung on the walls to give visitors a feel of what life was like when Barranjoey was a manned lightstation.
Barranjoey Tower Gets Mark Sheriff's Touch of MagicAlthough it looks hair-raising Mark Sheriff, who has worked for several years in the specialised field of lighthouses and their upkeep, regularly assures visitors that he is perfectly safe. Using harnesses and other essential safety equipment, Mark has been progressively repainting, waterproofing and repairing the glass and metal dome of the light tower some 13 metres above the ground. He is also improving the access, safety and presentation of the towers interior.
Alan Ginns, the National Parks and Wildlife Service Northern Beaches Area Manager explains:
"Mark is carrying out some essential maintenance and safety works in the light tower, as well as enhancing its appearance and presentation. This is both to protect the historic buildings themselves and to get the site ready for small-group tours which we plan to offer over the coming summer holidays."
"Marks wealth of experience in lighthouse maintenance has been invaluable to the NPWS, as it is certainly a highly specialised field with only a handful of experienced people working nationwide."
The
lens itself is dismantled, repaired and reassembled.
[Image: Mark
Watt, NPWS NSW]
Mark Sheriff feels each lighthouse has its own character and special attractions, and considers Barranjoey Lighthouse's unique location and views as its defining feature:
Marks efforts have been supported university students from the Campus Volunteers Programme, run by Conservation Volunteers Australia, who have been busily undertaking weed control, rubbish removal and other site protection works in and around the historic complex.
Mark is constantly fielding questions from inquisitive visitors about what he is doing and the lighthouses history, construction and operation:
"People are always asking if they can just come in for a quick look around so I'm sure the guided tours will prove a valuable and very popular addition to the Barranjoey experience.".
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Barranjoey Lightstation Tours Begin
From the Light Towers outer balcony listen to the NPWS guide recount tales of shipwrecks, isolation and hardships while taking in the spectacular views.
Mark Watt, who has coordinated the NPWS lighthouse restoration works and preparations for the tours, feels that visitors will be attracted by the sites history, its scenery, or simply the headlands challenge and location alone.
"The tours give a fascinating overview of the headlands history - from more than 1,600 generations of occupation by the Guringai Aboriginal, through the lighthouse era, to Jervis Sparks and Pat Quirk who tenanted the headlands historic stone cottages until recent times."
To celebrate the inaugural tour party going up in late March everyone was presented with a commemorative copy of Jervis Sparks book "Tales From Barranjoey", annotated and signed by Jervis himself, to mark the occasion.
The
view south back to Sydney from inside the lantern room.
[Image: Ed Kavaliunas]
The hour-long guided tours operate Saturdays, Sundays, and public and school holidays, as well as other times for organised groups by appointment. Intending visitors are reminded that the thirty minute climb to the top of the headland is steep and rocky, and there are no toilets or water on the summit. But the NPWS is confident that the challenges of getting there will be forgotten with visitors first breathtaking views from the Light Tower.
Tours costs are $10 for adults and $6 for children and concessions, or $30 for a family package, and must be pre-booked. For tour information and bookings call (02) 9247 5033.
[Sharon Fielden <mfielden@bigpond.com>]
The Pine Islet Lighthouse at it's current location
at the Mackay Harbour.
[Image: Winsome Bonham]
As reported in the June Bulletin, there are plans to relocate the Pine Islet Lighthouse.
The Pine Islet Lighthouse Preservation Society committee welcomes the move.
Committee member and ex-lightkeeper Ted Myers believes the current location is completely unsuitable and difficult to find.
Although it has been painted, he feels the lighthouse has a look of neglect that conceals its proud past. It is at the mercy of vandals who have smashed some of the glass panes. These have been boarded up or covered with perspex.
The optics and dome are on loan from the government and there is concern they may be removed if there is a risk of damage.
The proposed new site would place the tower closer to the water's edge, a distance of about 100 metres from where it now stands. The tower would have full camera surveillance.
The huge lens has one of the very few kerosene
burners still in tact.
[Image: Pine Islet Lighthouse Preservation Society]
The committee is waiting on their engineer's report regarding the planned method of relocating the tower which involves digging trenches under the tower and lifting it to the new site rather than dismantle the whole tower again. Mr Myers is adamant the lenses will be removed for safekeeping before relocation.
There is also uncertainty as to whether the move is the responsibility of the council or the Mackay Harbour Trust. The developer of near by apartments has also offered assistance but has not committed any details to paper..
[Leigh Carroll <lcarroll@westnet.com.au>]
I work with Paul Sofalis operating tours at the Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse. At the moment, tours are fully guided with a minimum of nine tours per day
The freshly painted Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse
at sunset.
[Image: Paul Sofalis, AMRTA]
A lot of restoration work has been completed by AMSA, with the lantern area fully de-rusted and restored. The beautiful century old wrought iron catwalks look like they are brand new.
The tower has been painted white.
Plans are being formulated for the future use of the cottages, but it seems unlikely they will be used for accommodation. Personally I think this is good due to the layout of the site and the easy access for visitors, and the historical significance of the Cape and the lighthouse.
Please feel free to pass my email address to anyone interested in updating the Cape's lovely page.
The museum at Cape Schanck is looking for someone to research, document and produce an electronic multimedia presentation for the museum. Interested people with the appropriate skills please contact Tony Sheer at 05 0055 6864. Email: <CHERINGA@bigpond.com>.
Advance Notice!
A meeting is planned for Monday September 2nd at the Moat House Hotel near London's Gatwick Airport.
The plan is to commence at 1100hrs with a working lunch with a keynote talk by a lighthouse specialist.
This notice is sent to a wide cross section of lighthouse enthusiasts, some individuals some members of lighthouse societies.
My aim is to publicise the event and invite all to attend.
Distance I know will preclude some participants so I invite informal brief submissions.
Further details will be emailed during the next week or so. Lets hope that this is the start of a Society that will move forward to influence international cooperation in lighthouse preservation.
If you know someone that you feel should be invited please contact me.
Peter Williams <peter.williams@leadinglights.net>
Peter Williams Associates
Milford Marina
Milford Haven SA73 3AF
UKPhone 44 01646 698825
Fax 44 01646 692896
www.leadinglights.net
Hawaii Finds Another SolutionHawaii's aged lighthouses still cast their far-reaching beams miles out to sea, but the future of some of the state's desolate beacons is uncertain. Marking isolated points like Kilauea, Makapu'u, Kalaupapa and Kumukahi, Hawaii's lighthouses are becoming obsolete, their warnings relayed more effectively to mariners by radar and global positioning systems. And because they are old, Federal authorities are planning to transfer control of many of the 301 lighthouses across the nation from the Coast Guard to other agencies, and perhaps even to private groups although the Coast Guard would remain responsible - for keeping the beacons beaming. But don't get your checkbook out. First, the lighthouses would be transferred free of charge. Second, they won't be transferred to individuals. And finally, they come with lots of strings attached and any group acquiring one would have to commit to costly preservation and maintenance. Under the National Historic Lighthouse Preservation Act of 2000, the Department of Interior can transfer historic lighthouses and lightstations at no cost to government agencies, nonprofit corporations and community development organizations. Interior Secretary Gale Norton this week will turn over the first lighthouse properties to public and private organizations under the National Historic Lighthouse Preservation Program. One, the Tybee Island Lighthouse in Georgia, will be owned and maintained by the Tybee Island Historical Society. Another, the St. Augustine Lighthouse, is being turned over to the St Augustine Lighthouse and Museum, a non-profit corporation formed by the Junior Service League of St Augustine, Fla.
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The idea is to maintain them in perpetuity, but to have someone other than the Coast Guard do it. In Hawaii the Kilauea Point lighthouse on Kaua'i has been transferred to the Fish and Wildlife Service, which operates the Kilauea Point National Wildlife Refuge. "We keep it up, with the help of volunteers," said Barbara Maxfield of the Fish and Wildlife Service office in Honolulu. "We don't do anything on that lighthouse any more," said Cmdr. Mike Cosenza, chief of the Aids to Navigation Branch for the 14th Coast Guard District. However, sailors north of Kaua`i still have a beacon. The Coast Guard maintains an automated light on a steel pole next to the 1913 lighthouse on Kilauea Point. Molokai's Kalaupapa Lighthouse has been declared surplus to the Coast Guard's needs, and the paperwork is under way to transfer it to another owner. It will probably go to the National Park Service, which runs the Kalaupapa National Historical Park at the site of the Hansen's Disease settlement on a peninsula jutting from Molokai's north facing cliffs. There are no plans at this time for changes in ownership of the remaining big lights: Diamond Head, Makapu'u, Nãwiliwili, Cape Kumukahi or Barbers Point. That could come, however. The National Historic Lighthouse Preservation Program envisions most of the nation's lighthouses being transferred to other agencies, some of which may be private groups. But neither the Coast Guard nor the National Historic Lighthouse Preservation Program envisions turning off the lights. "The Coast Guard would still be responsible for the light and the maintenance of it," said Sherry Shirkey, chief of the real property branch for the Coast Guard in the Islands. In the example of the Molokai lighthouse, the Coast Guard would retain an easement, and would continue to maintain the actual rotating beacon. The park service would maintain the grounds, keep the tall concrete structure painted, and might chip the rust off the railings and repaint them. There would be strict requirements for maintenance of the structures, many of which are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Non-government organizations proposing to take over lighthouses would have to prove they could afford to keep them up, said Kevin Foster, chief of the National Park Service's maritime heritage program. |
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The JULY 02 BULLETIN was published on: 14/07/02
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Lighthouses of Australia Web Site First Published: 3/12/97
Photographs & Contributions:
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